Label


Alexander Mcqueen <Hair labels>, Steely Dan <Deacon Blues>





Alexander Mcqueen, “Dante” Fall/Winter 1996, East London(UK), 1996
© Alexander Mcqueen

When I discovered these labels sewn into the garments, I gained a deeper understanding of Alexander Mcqueen's intent. He used his own hair in the garment labels of his early collection, inspired by the Victorian-era tradition of exchanging lockets of hair between lovers and prostitutes. These labels encapsulated his vision, which was characterized by a mix of grotesque and romantic elements.




Steely Dan, Deacon Blues in <Aja>, United States, 1977   © ABC

“I cried when I wrote this song. Sue me if I play too long”. In the lyrics to Deacon Blues from the album <Aja>, Steely Dan appears unexpectedly in the song. I began to grasp the overall ambiguity and sophisticated sonic landscape of the album after hearing this part. The title Deacon Blues is inspired by the underachieving college football team, implying that even the losers deserve a great title. So the lyrics seem to portray someone dreaming with ambition and aspiration. Suddenly, around the 5:10 mark of verse 3, the musicians appear directly in the song and reveal their presence. The lyrics and the singer's circumstances were a perfect match, as the song is literally long at 7 minutes and 37 seconds. They embed their hidden label in their music.




Paul Thomas Anderson, Phantom Thread, United States, Universal Pictures, 2017  © Universal Pictures



In the movie Phantom Thread, Reynolds Woodcock, a renowned dress designer, shares with his lover Alma his habit of writing messages behind the labels of his creations. While helping to make a dress, Alma discovers the label and finds the message, ‘Never Cursed’. Discovering someone's hidden label in their work offers me a deep understanding of the person behind their creation.